So. Leeking. Good.
Spring vegetables, round three.
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The lovely vegetables in this series all have one thing in common: once you get them home from the farmers market, you quickly run out of ways to use them. Well, we’re here to tell you that these typecast vegetables are a lot more versatile than you might think—and we’ve got the recipes to prove it.
The only use for leeks that most people know about is leek vinaigrette. As pleasant a dish as this is—and as much as it screams “spring”—it’s among the most innocuous ways to present what is the subtlest and in a way least forgiving member of the allium family. Leeks can be notoriously difficult to clean—dirt gets in among all those leaves, especially the green parts—and are a bit temperamental to cook as well: Without liquid, they can quickly burn; with it, they can get both soggy and stringy at the same time.
My favorite simple ways to cook leeks also make quick work of cleaning: cut them up and wash them in a colander: fast, easy, effective.
After doing that, I most often do one of two things with them: Cook them by themselves in oil, stirring until they brown (be careful; once they start to brown, things can go from perfect to wrong quickly)—then use them as a garnish or a salty snack: Fantastic.
I also incorporate them into stir-fries, taking the place of onions. Here, again, you have to keep an eye on them. But you can use both white and the tenderest of the green parts, and just cook them with shellfish, sliced meat, or chunked tofu, along with whatever other ingredients you like. My favorite is thin-sliced pork shoulder and sliced leeks, with not much else.
And, for those of you with an abundance, there is the magnificent leek terrine, which truly showcases the vegetable’s delicate, subtle flavor.
Braised and Glazed Chicken and Leeks
If you braise meat and vegetables in very little liquid, there’s enough to generate steam for cooking but not so much that you need to spend time reducing it for a sauce at the end. Just toss in a little butter to thicken it, and you’re all set.
Leek Terrine
Leeks have loads of natural gelatin, and this dish takes advantage of that. You’ll need a narrow rectangular mold, about the same length as the leeks—about 14 inches long by 3 inches wide by 3 inches high.
Torta di Porri (Leek Pie)
Somewhat more elegant than its more famous French cousin — good hot, perhaps even better warm or at room temperature, this is an ideal buffet or picnic preparation.
Fish Baked with Leeks
This is a dish that is almost too simple to believe, one that combines wonderful textures and flavors with a minimum of ingredients, no added fat, and almost no preparation or cooking time. Like the best simple dishes, everything counts here: the fish, the leeks—which remain crisp and assertive thanks to the quick cooking time—and even the wine or stock.
The chef is like a magician, using fire, spices and seasonal ingredients to mix the flavors of the season and mood. Every bite is a journey.